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If you’ve ever battled acne, redness, or those stubborn post-blemish marks, chances are you’ve cycled through the usual suspects – salicylic acid, vitamin Cmaybe even a retinoid or two. But there’s one ingredient quietly doing it all – calming inflammation, fading dark spots, and keeping breakouts in check – minus the irritation that often comes with stronger actives. Enter azelaic acid, the beauty insider’s understated powerhouse.

What is azelaic acid?

‘Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid derived from grains like barley and wheat,’ explains Dr Sonia Khorana (@dermgp), a GP with a special interest in dermatology. ‘But in skincare, it’s usually produced synthetically to ensure stability and consistency.’

Though it might sound intense, azelaic acid is surprisingly gentle. It’s a dicarboxylic acid, meaning it works differently from other exfoliating acids like AHAs or BHAs. Instead of aggressively resurfacing the skin, it gently promotes cell turnover while targeting bacteria and inflammation – making it suitable even for sensitive skin types.

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What does azelaic acid do?

‘It’s a great multitasking ingredient with anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and keratolytic properties,’ says Dr Khorana. ‘This means it helps calm redness, reduce acne-causing bacteria and gently exfoliate the skin.’

In clinical settings, azelaic acid is used to treat acne, rosacea and pigmentation concerns, making it ‘one of the most versatile and well-tolerated active ingredients.’

Unlike some actives that only target one issue, azelaic acid does it all: it reduces inflammation (helping to soothe rosacea and redness), fights bacteria (making it effective against acne) and inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase (which helps fade hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory marks). Think of it as a three-in-one – exfoliant, brightener and anti-inflammatory all at once.

Who should use azelaic acid?

‘I often get a lot of patients asking me about azelaic acid as it’s becoming better known through social media,’ says Dr Khorana. And with good reason.

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Azelaic acid is suitable for almost all skin types – including those who can’t tolerate stronger active ingredients. ‘It has a host of benefits and is useful for everything from acne to rosacea, perioral dermatitis to hyperpigmentation,’ she explains.

If you’re prone to redness, sensitivity or barrier disruption, azelaic acid can help restore calm and clarity without the risk of over-exfoliation.

Can you use azelaic acid every day?

Yes. ‘You can use it every day,’ confirms Dr Khorana. ‘It’s much gentler than many other active ingredients.’

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In fact, azelaic acid is so mild it’s considered generally safe during pregnancy – a rare trait among potent skincare ingredients. It can be used morning or night, and pairs well with a variety of additional products and actives.’

What are the best actives to mix with azelaic acid?

Because it’s so gentle, azelaic acid plays well with many other ingredients – though Dr Khorana advises sticking to professionally formulated products, rather than mixing actives yourself at home.

‘It works well with salicylic acid (in low concentrations), as it helps unclog pores and complements azelaic acid’s acne-fighting action,’ she says. ‘It also pairs nicely with retinoids and vitamin C.’

Together, these combinations can refine texture, brighten skin and reduce both breakouts and pigmentation – all while maintaining your skin barrier integrity.

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What should you not mix with azelaic acid?

While azelaic acid is forgiving, layering it incorrectly can cause irritation. ‘It’s down to the formulation,’ says Dr Khorana. ‘I would not advise layering different active products, including retinoids or exfoliating acids, at home. This can increase the risk of irritation and can lead to dryness or stinging.’

If you want to combine actives, look for pre-formulated products that already include compatible ingredients in balanced concentrations.

What are the best azelaic acid products?

You’ll typically find azelaic acid in 10% concentrations in over-the-counter products, and 15–20% in prescription formulas. Here are some of Dr Khorana’s favourites:

If you’re looking for an ingredient that balances efficacy with gentleness, azelaic acid might just be your skin’s new best friend. It’s anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and brightening – all without the irritation of harsher actives.

Whether you’re managing acne, rosacea, pigmentation or just want smoother, calmer skin, this understated multitasker deserves a place in your routine.